Shutter
I have experimented with moving camera light painting outside with street lights and inside a dark room with LEDs which I achieved with a lower shutter speed. I did this to explore the how light was effected in a photo when the amount of time the shutter is open for is extended. doing this had different impacts in different situations which changed the impact as shown above. outside created flares with a slight background glow, inside a dark room with LEDs still and moving camera created a different more focused effect and moving frames on a tv caused an artistic cloudy effect. I have also experimented filming high frame rates as well as faster shutter speeds in order to counteract motion blur, which I did because I wanted to explore the impact these different speeds had on the shots. With these experiments I was also trying to achieve the impact of the shutter speed is that it was necessary for the shutter speed to be in bulb mode at a slow speed. this is because at the slow speed the shutter is open for longer creating a long exposure which creates the light paintings.
The differences in the speeds were reduced light because of the higher shutter speed needed as well as a reduced resolution which created a little bit of grain in the shot creating a less crisp shot. However, even though the shots were grainy I felt the higher fps created a more viscous like fluid effect as the dice dropped. The impact of the shutter speed is that as the fps was raised to 400 and 800fps it meant that the shutter speed also had to be raised. An example of this is for 25 fps the shutter needs to be at 1/50 of a second otherwise there will be excessive blurring and not the crispt clear look which in slow motion is important because it looks better to the human eye and is more likely to the audience for example – The slow mo guys.
Apature
Wide aperture/focus push
In this shot, I used an aperture appropriate to the light meter but also brought the lighting down a little in order to create a little more foregrounding and blur which I did by upping the aperture after lowing the lights to get the correct exposure. As shown above, I started focused on the phone and then shifted the focus to the subject. I did this because it adds more interest to the shot drawing the focus of the audience.
I experimented with different levels of the apertures f-stop from wide to narrow in different shots. In these shots, I experimented with the same location and shot but with wide and narrow apertures, the effect was two different shots one with the attention more on the lower thirds and the second with the top third drawing more attention. this is because for the first shot I exposed for the ground and house and in the second shot I exposed appropriately for the sky by upping the aperture 3 stops to f 11.
In this shot I exposed the shot for the corridor and stars part in the shot, this meant that there was some grain in the dark parts at the start of the shot, However for where the shot goes I think it is appropriate. I exposed this shot by staying on 1/50 shutter speed, 2.8 aperture and 800 Iso, I would have rather not gone so high on the ISO although due to lighting equipment restrictions it was required which added a little grain.
For this shot, I used a low key lighting set up I did this by just holding an led torch which I then shined and moved it on and around the vicinity of the glass which created the moving Bokehs with a few bubbles effect I wanted to achieve. I did this by opening up the aperture to 1.8 on and racket the focus until the lights were somewhat out of focus but also slightly in focus.
Timelapse
Time lapses aren’t used as conventionally as normal shots were taken in normal time, for example, someone walking for five seconds is five seconds long, however, time lapses are compressed in time which can be useful when trying to convey the passage of time. I have experimented with different time lapse settings such as overall duration and seconds in between shots taken using the in-camera time-lapse function. This had different impacts such as smoother vs choppier footage because of the reduced amount of frames when a frame is only taken once every 5 seconds once every 2 seconds. I also experimented with setting different manual exposure and keeping it the same exposure as the first frame which caused the camera to be bombarded with light as the sun passed or be able to fade to complete darkness due to the exposure being set to a bright sky. For the timelapse, I didn’t have to consider the settings as much as I would have done if I had used an external intervalometer because in the inbuilt timelapse was a lot more automated. However, if I had used an intervalometer I would have had to do the math of how long it would be for 30 seconds and so that would need so 30 seconds is about ~ 720-900 frames (photos). And for certain time-lapses such as people rather than sunrise and sunset, the seconds between photos taken would need to be considered depending on if a slow and smooth or a quick and jumpy time lapse is appropriate which I also had to consider whilst doing the time lapse of the sunsets.
Dale 
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